Credit Reports and Scores: Disputing a Charge-Off — Process, Timelines, and Tips

How to Dispute a Charge-Off on Your Credit Report?

A charge-off is a creditor’s classification of an unpaid account as unlikely to be collected and is reported to credit bureaus; disputing a charge-off means challenging its accuracy or completeness with the credit reporting agencies and furnishers to get it corrected or removed.

Why disputing a charge-off matters

A charge-off is one of the most damaging tradeline statuses you can have on a credit report. It signals serious delinquency and typically lowers your credit score more than a late payment. Because charge-offs remain on reports for up to seven years from the date of first delinquency, an inaccurate charge-off can suppress your creditworthiness for a long time. Correcting errors — or getting a charge-off reclassified after a settlement — improves your chances for loans, lower insurance rates, and better credit offers.

For official consumer guidance, see the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB): https://www.consumerfinance.gov/consumer-tools/credit-reports-and-scores/credit-reports/dispute-errors-on-your-credit-report/.


Step-by-step: the dispute process (practical workflow)

  1. Pull all three credit reports. Order free copies at AnnualCreditReport.com and review Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion separately — each bureau can carry different information (AnnualCreditReport.com; Equifax/Experian/TransUnion).

  2. Confirm the underlying details. Note the account number, original creditor name, date of first delinquency (DOFD), balance, and any status notes (charged-off, collection, sold to collection agency). The DOFD determines the 7-year reporting period under the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA).

  3. Gather supporting evidence. Useful documents include payment receipts, cleared checks, bank statements, settlement letters, identity theft affidavits, or correspondence showing the account was paid or disputed earlier.

  4. File the dispute with each credit bureau reporting the charge-off. You can dispute online, by phone, or by mail. Certified mail with return receipt provides a stronger paper trail — include copies (never originals) of evidence and a clear, concise explanation of the error.

  5. Send a dispute to the furnisher (the original creditor or collection agency) as well. Furnishers are required to investigate disputes they receive via the bureaus and must report accurate results back to the bureaus.

  6. Track and follow up. Keep logs of dates, whom you contacted, what you sent, and the tracking/return-receipt numbers.

  7. Review the results. If a credit bureau corrects or removes the charge-off, it must provide the results and a free copy of your credit report showing the changes (CFPB guidance). If the bureau verifies the charge-off, you can add a short consumer statement to the file.


Timelines to expect

  • Bureau investigation window: The FCRA generally requires consumer reporting agencies to investigate disputes within 30 days of receipt. If you submit additional documentation during the initial 30 days, the bureau may extend the investigation up to 45 days (see CFPB). Furnishers must also investigate and report findings back.

  • Outcome notification: Bureaus must notify you of the results and provide a free copy of your report if it changed.

  • Litigation timelines: If the bureau/furnisher confirms the charge-off and you believe it is inaccurate under the FCRA, pursuing legal action (or sending a demand letter through counsel) is an option. Statutes of limitation for filing FCRA claims and state consumer laws vary; consult an attorney for deadlines.


Possible outcomes and next steps

  • Charge-off removed entirely: This happens when the investigation finds the entry cannot be verified.
  • Status corrected or updated: The account may be re-labeled (e.g., “settled” instead of “charged-off”) or the balance adjusted. Keep any written settlement or payoff agreements — they matter for later verification.
  • Verified as accurate: If the furnisher validates the charge-off, you can add a brief written statement (100–300 words) to your credit file explaining your perspective. You may also escalate by filing a complaint with the CFPB (https://www.consumerfinance.gov/complaint/) or pursuing FCRA remedies.

When to pay, settle, or negotiate

  • Paying a charged-off account does not automatically remove the charge-off notation. It shows as a paid charge-off or settled account, which is better than an unpaid charge-off but still negative.
  • “Pay-for-delete” agreements (creditor/collector agrees to remove the charge-off in exchange for payment) are increasingly uncommon and some creditors refuse. The CFPB and major bureaus caution that pay-for-delete is not guaranteed and may be against furnishers’ reporting policies. Always get any agreement in writing before paying.
  • If you settle, obtain a written settlement or paid-in-full letter that explicitly states the account status and balance satisfied.

For more on how settlements impact long-term reporting, see How Charge-Offs and Settlements Affect Your Credit Report Long-Term: https://finhelp.io/glossary/how-charge-offs-and-settlements-affect-your-credit-report-long-term/.


Identity theft or misattributed accounts

If the charge-off was caused by identity theft, follow the FTC’s identity theft recovery steps and submit an Identity Theft Affidavit at https://www.identitytheft.gov/. Include the affidavit and supporting documents in your dispute package; furnishers and bureaus have specific procedures for fraud-related disputes.


Sample dispute letter (concise template you can adapt)

[Your name]
[Address]
[City, State, ZIP]
[Date]

To: [Credit Bureau name and address]
Re: Dispute of charge-off — [Creditor name], account #[account number]

I dispute the accuracy of the above account. The report lists a charge-off reported by [furnisher], with a DOFD of [date]. This is inaccurate because [brief reason: e.g., “account was paid in full on [date]” or “this was identity theft”]. Enclosed are copies of [list documents: settlement letter, bank statement, identity theft report] that support my dispute. Please investigate and correct or remove this item under the Fair Credit Reporting Act.

Sincerely,
[Your name]

Tip: Attach copies of supporting evidence and send by certified mail. Keep copies of everything for at least 2 years.


Common mistakes and how to avoid them

  • Filing a vague dispute: Be specific — cite the exact reason and reference documents.
  • Relying only on the bureau: Send disputes to both the bureaus and the furnisher.
  • Not documenting communications: Use certified mail and keep date-stamped copies.
  • Paying before getting a written agreement: If you negotiate removal, get a signed, written agreement before payment.

When to escalate

  • If the investigation is incomplete or you receive no response, file a complaint with the CFPB (https://www.consumerfinance.gov/complaint/).
  • If your documentation clearly proves an FCRA violation, consult a consumer attorney about sending a demand letter or filing suit. FCRA cases can recover actual damages, statutory damages, and attorney’s fees in meritorious cases.

How much a charge-off typically hurts your score

Impact varies by scoring model and your overall credit profile. A recent charge-off after multiple late payments will usually hit your score harder than an older, isolated charged-off account. Re-aging the account to reflect payment or removal of the account will typically produce the largest score improvement.

See also “How Long Negative Items Stay on Your Credit Report” for reporting timeframes: https://finhelp.io/glossary/how-long-negative-items-stay-on-your-credit-report/.


Professional checklist before you dispute

  • Obtain and review all three bureau reports
  • Record DOFD and account history
  • Collect supporting documentation
  • Send disputes to both bureaus and furnishers; use certified mail
  • Track responses and request free updated reports after corrections
  • If identity theft, file FTC identity theft report (https://www.identitytheft.gov/)

Professional disclaimer
This article is educational and reflects general practices as of 2025. It is not legal or financial advice. For guidance about your specific situation — including whether to litigate under the FCRA or pursue a debt settlement — consult a licensed attorney or certified credit counselor.

Author note
In my 15 years helping clients with credit repair, the most successful disputes combined clear documentation, simultaneous bureau and furnisher outreach, and patience. Small, accurate changes add up: repairing credit is often a months-long process, not an overnight fix.

Further reading (internal links)

Authoritative sources cited

FINHelp - Understand Money. Make Better Decisions.

One Application. 20+ Loan Offers.
No Credit Hit

Compare real rates from top lenders - in under 2 minutes

Recommended for You

FINHelp - Understand Money. Make Better Decisions.

One Application. 20+ Loan Offers.
No Credit Hit

Compare real rates from top lenders - in under 2 minutes